Off the Beaten Path: Discovering the Southeast of Ferrara

Just a short walk from the city center, away from the more touristy routes, lies a part of Ferrara worth exploring slowly. This area is home to some of the city’s most fascinating landmarks: grand palaces, churches steeped in history, and timeless atmospheres. Welcome to the Southeast district of Ferrara, a neighborhood that echoes with Renaissance dreams, spiritual depth, and stories suspended across the centuries. Get your walking shoes ready: beauty awaits at every step.

San Francesco: An Echo from the Past

Our journey begins in Piazza San Francesco, where the Renaissance-style church of the same name stands proudly, designed by Biagio Rossetti. Majestic on the outside and full of surprises within, it houses works by artists like Il Garofalo and hides a curious acoustic secret: stand in the center aisle, clap your hands—and you’ll hear a perfect echo. Try it to believe it.

The Heart of the District: Palazzo Schifanoia

Just 250 steps from the church lies the understated façade of Palazzo Schifanoia. The name, which means “to escape boredom,” says it all: this was the Este family’s leisure retreat. Today, it’s one of the most fascinating museums in Italy. Don’t miss the 'Salone dei Mesi', an extraordinary fresco cycle rich with mythology, allegories, zodiac signs, and court scenes, celebrating the rule of Duke Borso. It’s a masterpiece—and a crash course in astrology, politics, and iconography—that holds a pivotal place in art history thanks to Aby Warburg’s interpretation. After recent restorations, the museum route now includes new rooms and installations. Alongside the opulent halls, you’ll find ceramics, illuminated manuscripts, sculptures, and applied arts, offering a full immersion into Ferrara’s Renaissance civilization. And don’t skip the charming Renaissance garden—perfect for a peaceful break, especially in fair weather.

Between Art and Miracles: Santa Maria in Vado

A short walk down Via Borgovado brings you to the Baroque gem of Santa Maria in Vado, linked to a miraculous event: in 1171, during Easter Mass, the consecrated host began to bleed, staining the altar vault. The event drew pilgrims from across Europe. Today, the church features works by Carlo Bononi and other Ferrarese masters.

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^{Ph. Pierluigi Benini}

Silent Spirituality: The Monastery of Corpus Domini

Continue along Via Pergolato to Via Praisolo, and you’ll find the Monastery of Corpus Domini, a serene place steeped in memory. Here rest Lucrezia Borgia and other members of the Este family. Still inhabited by Clarissan nuns, the monastery preserves a timeless atmosphere—and, according to some, the original recipe for pampapato, Ferrara’s spiced Christmas cake. Visitors are welcomed in silence and guided through Este history and breathtaking Baroque frescoes.

The Quiet Charm of Marfisa d’Este

Head back toward Corso Giovecca and you’ll come across another Renaissance gem: the Palazzina di Marfisa d’Este. Nestled between a garden and frescoed loggias, this villa was once the refuge of Marfisa, Lucrezia Borgia’s cultured and independent granddaughter. Today it’s a museum that offers a glimpse into the high society life of 16th-century Ferrara. Paintings, ceramics, furniture, and everyday objects are displayed within original interiors. Highlights include the illusionistic pergola-style loggia, the Italianate garden, and the theatrical vibes of Marfisa’s legendary soirées.

Corso Giovecca and the Prospettiva: The Renaissance in Perspective

To finish, walk the final stretch of Corso Giovecca, one of Ferrara’s most scenic avenues, built on the path of the medieval walls. Past Marfisa’s villa, you’ll see elegant palazzi and scenic views. At the eastern end stands the Prospettiva, an 18th-century arch framing the view toward the Addizione Erculea. Locals affectionately call it “Carosello” for its resemblance to the opening scene of the iconic TV show that aired from 1957 to 1977.